Union Special

When you buy a pair of jeans from Blue In Green, we will hem them for free. All hemming is done with a vintage Union Special 43200G chain stitch machine from the 1950s.

What’s A Chain Stitch?

It’s a type of stitch that consists of two threads chained and locked together for superior strength and flexibility. It is a common detail found on the bottom hems of vintage jeans and can also be found on the hems of all the jeans sold at Blue In Green. When a pair of jeans is cuffed showcasing its chain stitched hem, it is the perfect compliment to a double selvedge outerseam.

Why Use A Union Special Machine?

Union Special sewing machines were the machines that constructed the original jeans of old. These vintage machines are still some of the strongest machines out there and are highly sought after worldwide.

Due to the unique characteristics of the machine, it has a special “pull” to the fabric while stitching. This creates a slight directional pressure on the hem. As the jeans shrink after several washes, this tug will develop “roping” effect in the hem. The effect is most pronounced when the hem is stitched with a vintage Union Special 43200 chain stitch machine.

When possible we apply the same thread used by the manufacturer and match the color as a close as possible to the thread of the original hem. We go to great lengths to match the weight and color of the thread, even if the original chain stitch utilizes two different colors. The end result is as close as possible to an exact reproduction of the original hem.

We also offer our free hemming service for Online orders as well, just make your request in the “Customer Note” section of the Shopping Cart prior to the Checkout Page. Online orders can generally be hemmed the same day of purchase if the order is placed early enough during the day.